Heathrow airport has to be one of the ugliest airports I’ve ever seen, and I’ve seen a lot of them. It looks like some kind of post-modern industrial nightmare, is horribly lighted, has no circulating air to speak of, and I thought I would grow old and gray waiting for my luggage.
But then things started getting fun. At the taxi stand I got my first "alo, luv!" and a lot of good-natured, flirtatious joking from the cabbies. My brother Linus swore to me that all drivers in the UK know where they’re going. As it turns out, my driver wasn’t precisely sure where my hotel was located so he checked with his pals. This turned into quite a drama among the boys, but I was comforted by the taxi stand manager. He had one of those great faces that makes you want to immortalize it in paint, ink, or photo. About my driver, the stand manager said: "Not to worry, luv, he knows where he’s going. If he makes any mistakes, just smack him on the head." Works for me. Actually, my driver turned out to be positively wonderful, full of helpful information and details about this and that.
Once out of the airport came the first glimpse of everything I’d imagined England to be: Pleasantly humid, overcast, and with gently swelling green hills, swaying grasses, horses in a pasture, a thatched-roof cottage.
If it weren’t for the Burger King, the Holiday Inn, and the massive Glaxo/Smith Klein complex, I really might have confused it all for New Jersey.
Along the drive from Heathrow to my hotel, I got to see, well, gee, almost everything one is supposed to see in London: The Tower of London, the London Eye, the Tower Bridge, the Queen’s digs. I arrived the day after her Majesty’s Jubilee, looks like it was one hell of a party from the mess left behind.
The most striking thing to me so far is the mixing of old and new in everything here. Architecture, fashion, you name it. The other intriguing thing is how truly contemporary many things about London are. As a media person, I find the advertising especially fascinating, fun, hip, really more sophisticated than anything I’ve ever seen in the US.
I’m staying in the Docklands, for those unfamiliar this is the old dock areas right along the Thames. Tons of wharf buildings and old council houses have been gentrified into new flats and office space, as well as new buildings, shops, and what-not being built. Very reminiscent of San Francisco’s South of Market, but the architecture is better. I took a long walk along the river front this morning, it is quite beautiful in its way.
Everyone always talks about the bad English food. My first English meal was wonderful. I had to do it: Fish and Chips and a pint of ale. I ate that meal in a pub complete with high-backed leather chairs and pictures of old sea captains on the wall. It was a truly great meal and I’ll remember it always.
Along with Jubilee, there’s the World Cup, and with yesterday’s spectacular game between the Irish and Germans, well, I got instantly caught up in the vibe. I think all of London was yelling hurrah at the tie goal. There was a band of Germans in the pub watching the post-game commentary. They appeared to be more silent and morose than usual, if that’s possible. I have no sympathy.
And then, there was breakfast this morning. Goodness, here I found all the reasons people make fun of English food. You can have yer back bacon and black pudding, thank you very much. The mushrooms were fine, though, as was the hot tea, of course. I drank so much of it I’m buzzing around like a fly.
I find the people here to be very helpful and friendly in a reserved way, coming out of their shells once you get to talking. But one thing puzzles me greatly. On the phone, the English seem to get very excited when they say goodbye. I’ve noticed this before, but it became very apparent to me while making phone calls earlier today.
Aside from the grander horrors of the arguing world, and the weird, unfolding tale of Richard Markham and Tristian Lovelock, I am really very happy right now. I’m cool, it’s raining, the favorite drinks are tea, coffee, and beer, and that pretty much sums up my happiness, too.